A full day in Rabat, an hour up the coast from Casablanca, in the company of a historian guide who can read the city's Almohad, Marinid and Alaouite layers. The route covers the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the unfinished Hassan Tower, the ruins and storks at Chellah, the walled Andalusian Gardens and the blue-washed lanes of the Kasbah des Oudaias. Lunch is taken at the marina in Sale before the drive back down the coast.
An hour's drive north brings you to the mausoleum holding the tombs of Mohammed V and his sons, cut in white onyx beneath a carved dome. Royal guards in red keep watch at the doors.
The working residence of the royal family, begun in 1864 and set behind a broad ceremonial approach. Seen from outside, the gates give the full scale of Moroccan palace architecture.
The 44-metre stump of a minaret begun in the 12th century and never finished, standing over a field of broken columns. The carved geometric panels differ on every face.
The gate into Chellah, where a Roman settlement and a Marinid necropolis share one walled garden. Storks nest on the ruined minaret above the tombs.
A walled early 20th-century garden of orange trees, fountains and tilework, with a reflecting pool at its centre. Cool and quiet in the middle of the day.
Sandstone ramparts raised in the 12th century still mark the edge of the old town, and the gates show how the city was once defended.
A 12th-century citadel above the mouth of the Bou Regreg, its narrow streets and courtyards washed blue and white, opening onto a terrace over the water.
A pause at the marina across the river, where fish restaurants look back towards Rabat. Reckon on around EUR 10-20 per person, paid locally.
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