Three hours west of Marrakech the air turns to salt and the light goes white. Essaouira is a walled 18th-century port whose UNESCO-listed medina was laid out on a grid and then filled in with Arab, Berber and European detail, and the day takes in its ramparts and cannon, the blue fishing fleet in the harbour, two art galleries and the shaded lanes of the old town. On the road out there is a women's argan cooperative and, if the timing is right, the argan trees full of climbing goats.
A women's collective where argan kernels are cracked, roasted and pressed by hand. You can taste the culinary oil and watch each stage of the work.
Duration: 20 min
Goats balanced high in the argan branches, browsing the fruit — one of the strangest roadside sights in Morocco.
Duration: 10 min
The 18th-century sea wall, with the Atlantic breaking below and gulls riding the wind above the parapet.
Duration: 20 min
The Portuguese-built bastion still mounted with its original cannon, pointed out over the water.
Duration: 15 min
A walk along the ochre ramparts, with the whitewashed town on one side and the open coastline on the other.
Duration: 15 min
The oceanside promenade, wide and wind-scoured, where kitesurfers work the bay on breezy afternoons.
Duration: 15 min
The old city's grid of shaded lanes, thuya-wood workshops, cafés and small shops. Easier to navigate than most Moroccan medinas.
Duration: 15 min
A gallery of contemporary Moroccan work, much of it by artists based on this coast.
Duration: 30 min
Local and international pieces shown in a converted kasbah building in the heart of the medina.
Duration: 30 min
Rows of blue wooden boats, nets being mended on the quay and the day's catch grilled on the spot.
Duration: 15 min
The harbour at the end of the day, when the light drops behind the Purpuraire islands and the fleet turns gold.
Duration: 10 min
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