Two days give Fez the time it actually needs. A licensed historian leads guests through the medina's fondouks, tanneries and madrasas, past workshops that have barely changed their methods in centuries, before a night in a four-star riad. The second day heads north-west to Volubilis, where the mosaic floors of a Roman provincial capital lie open to the sky, and on to the whitewashed hill town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun with its unusual round minaret. Transport, guiding, entrance fees, breakfast and a choice of pottery workshop or hammam are all arranged in advance.
An eighteenth-century public fountain framed in carved cedar and zellij, standing beside the Nejjarine funduq. For generations it was where the surrounding quarter drew its water.
The great gate of 1913 that serves as the ceremonial entrance to the old medina, blue on the outer face and green on the inner one.
A seventeenth-century synagogue in the Mellah, restored and still holding its original bimah and reading desk. It shows how deep Jewish roots run in Fez.
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri and widely counted as the oldest continually operating university anywhere. Guests take in the courtyard and green-tiled roofs from the permitted vantage points.
The oldest tannery in Fez, its stone vats of lime and dye still worked by hand as they were in medieval times. Sprigs of mint are handed out on the terrace above.
A working pottery and zellij cooperative where guests watch tiles cut by hand and kilns fired with olive pits.
A vantage point above the medina bowl, minarets and rooftops packed tight to the hillsides on every side.
A fourteenth-century Marinid college, one of the few religious buildings in Fez open to non-Muslims, with carved cedar screens around a marble courtyard.
Built in the early 1300s beside the spice market, and often held up as the finest zellij and stucco work in Morocco.
A sit-down meal in a medina riad, booked ahead so no time is lost hunting for a table.
Guests choose between throwing and glazing a piece at the ceramic cooperative, or a traditional steam, scrub and rest.
A charming riad inside the medina, close enough to step out into the evening streets on foot.
Duration: 1 night
The best-preserved Roman site in Morocco, where guests walk the Decumanus Maximus past the Capitol and basilica with floor mosaics still in place under open sky.
A whitewashed town spilling across two hills around the tomb of Morocco's founding ruler, marked by the country's only cylindrical minaret.
The drive back crosses the Saiss plain, with drop-off at the hotel or another chosen location around 7:00 PM.
Duration: 4.5-5 hours total driving
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